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- This is a hack I have done on the AR3000 scanner. My one is a first series one, but
- I guess the 3000A has the very same motherboard, so it should apply to the new one
- too.
-
- One defect I've found of this scanner is that its audio completely lacks basses
- in the AM/NFM/SSB/CW modes. I've gone to the service manual, and I've found that this
- is intentional. The audio line passes through a notch filter. This is stated
- to be 300-3000Hz. I do not believe much to the upper limit (the 5Khz whistle
- on shortwaves is quite strong), but I find the lower one annoying and unjustified.
- Therefore I removed that cutoff. After the intervention, I find a much improved
- audio quality, both in speech and in broadcast, and I haven't yet found a signal
- which makes me regret it. And if I even wanted, now I can add an external equalizer.
-
- The mod itself is simple, but involves working on SMD, so it's quite DELICATE.
- Do it at your risk. I'd reccommend having a copy of the PC layouts and of the
- schematics from the service manual, in order to understand what you're doing.
- I found useful making a coloured xerox copy of the etch layouts on transparencies,
- so to overlay them.
-
- Theory: the notch filter for AM/NFM/CW/SSB is built around the double op-amps
- in IC7-IC8 on the if/audio board. The lower cutoff is determined primarily by
- R130(10k), R139(4.7k), C130(22n), C131(22n), C137(22n) (I don't swear on the
- correctness of the identifiers since my schematic is borderline readable)
-
- C128
- ,---||---.
- |-/\/\/\-| ,________.
- | R143 | | |
- | |\ | | |\ |
- ---|-\ | C130 C131 R139 | 2| \ | R142
- 2| \___|____||____||____/\/\/\_|__|- \__|___/\/\/\_
- | /1 || | || | | /1
- ---|+/ / |___||_____|+/
- 3|/ R \ || | 3|/
- 1 / C137 |
- IC8 3 \ _______| IC7
- 0 /
- |
- _
- =
-
- What I did was: to remove R130; to solder a 0.1uF condenser in parallel to C130+C131;
- to remove C137 and to shunt it with a jumper.
-
-
-
- Operation: unscrew the cover and nake the receiver. Unplug the loudspeaker connector.
- The audio/if board is the lowest one, and has to be unscrewed and turned upside-down,
- so that the SMD side is accessible. To this extent, at least one of the coax
- connectors (J1,J10) has to be unplugged. Locate the components to be attacked (again
- I recommend having the etch layout; I try to sketch, but it's not as clear). The
- region is on the SMD side opposite to IC9 on the component side. IC9 is recognizable
- since is a voltage regulator, it has 3 pins and gets hot.
-
- ^^^^^^^^
- (ceramic filters)
- (components side)
-
-
- __
- / \
- || ||=|| || (hole)
- \__/ || ||
- C131 22k
- IC7 || ||
- C130 100k
- || || || || || ||
- ||=|| || || 220p ||
- || R130
- ||C137|| IC8 ||
-
- ||
- || || || || 220p
- ||
-
-
-
-
- ( IC 11 )
- (components side)
- vvvvvvvv
-
-
-
- (Sorry but I can't draw any better)
-
- I suggest to turn the radio on, and to try to shunt C130+C131 and C137 leaning
- a O.1uF condenser on the proper tin points, in order to locate them. The sound
- should get richer of basses in both cases.
- Then unsolder R130 and C137. It requires a quick and firm hand since the components
- are ~4mm long, and glued to the board. Solder a short shunt in place of C137.
- Solder a 0.1uF condenser (or greater) on the extremes of C130+C131. A little
- ceramic one does it; even if it is not as neat as replacing with another
- SMD, there is plenty of room.
- I did all the job with no other equipment than a cheap and thin tip soldering iron
- and a pair of pincers, but, again, entirely YOUR RESPONSIBILITY.
- Rescrew, close, enjoy... Of course the effect is much better with an external
- speaker.
-
-
- I'd like to hear comments or to know if anyone has tried other hacks on the same
- box. Please email me. Once more, I take NO RESPONSIBILITY whatsoever... :)
- ... In my case it worked well, though.
- A final note: I'm indebted to Henry Laviers <hl1@acpub.duke.edu>, who sent me
- a copy of the service manual two years ago.
-
- Enrico Segre, segre@polito.it
-